Hot Springs and Coastal Dreams: A Day with Ahous Adventures

Checking Off a Bucket List Item

During a recent visit to the wildly scenic coastal town of Tofino, British Columbia, we finally checked off a long-standing bucket list item: a visit to Hot Springs Cove.

Tucked away on the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island, this remote natural wonder is known for its steaming geothermal pools set in a lush rainforest—a setting that feels as magical as it sounds.

The journey there, winding through pristine ocean waters and old-growth cedar forests within Ahousaht traditional territory, added to the sense of adventure.

Thank You, Ahous Adventures

We were generously hosted by Ahous Adventures, a First Nations-owned eco and cultural tour company offering unforgettable experiences like hot springs excursions, whale watching, and bear viewing tours.

A Perfect Day for a Tour

After checking in at the Ahous Adventures office in town, we joined our group’s ten other guests in gearing up for our journey. With the safety briefing complete and PFDs on, we followed our tour coordinator down to the docks, where Captain Richard greeted us with a warm smile.

The morning couldn’t have been more perfect: clear skies, rough but invigorating seas, and a sense of anticipation for what lay ahead.

Our First Wildlife Sighting

Within minutes of setting off, Richard pointed out a bald eagle perched in a tree along the shoreline. Holding up a set of eagle feathers he’d brought along, he shared insights into the bird’s life cycle and how young eagles learn to fly—part biology lesson, part storytelling.

Because the seas were too rough that morning to take the outside route to our destination, Richard opted for the inside passage along the coast. From time to time, he slowed the boat to scan the beaches with his binoculars, hoping to spot wildlife. With the tide out, there was a chance we might see a bear flipping rocks in search of food.

A Cultural Connection to the Land and Sea

But wildlife wasn’t the only thing Richard spoke about. As we made our way to our destination—Maquinna Provincial Park—he shared stories about his family and ancestors, the Indigenous peoples of the region, and their deep connection to the land and water.

The boat ride to the park, a little over an hour in length, was stunning. As we cruised past dense forests and rugged, rocky shorelines, it felt like we were passing through an untouched world where few people had ever set foot.

We Made It to the Park

As Richard slid the boat up to the dock, we could see the inviting and well-kept wooden boardwalk stretching into the old-growth forest. As much as we wanted to get going and explore the area, we weren’t in a hurry to reach the hot springs—we had three full hours before the return trip to enjoy the lunch we’d packed and take our time soaking in Hot Springs Cove at the tip of the tiny Openit Peninsula.

The Walk to the Hot Springs Was Part of the Thrill

The walk from the dock to the hot springs is about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles). Thanks to the continuous boardwalk, it’s an easy and enjoyable trek, taking roughly 25 to 30 minutes one way—even with plenty of photo stops.

The boardwalk includes several bump-outs with benches for resting and many sets of stairs to navigate the ups and downs. We’ve walked a lot of trails through dense forests over the years, and this path was among the most well-maintained we’ve seen.

Hiking the boardwalk to Hot Springs Cove

Arriving at the Hot Springs

Just before reaching the end of the trail, we spotted a set of restrooms off to the left—conveniently located for visitors arriving or heading back. (There are also restrooms available near the dock.)

Moments later, we crossed a steaming creek flowing from the hot spring. From the boardwalk, we could see the near-boiling water bubbling up from the earth, beginning its short journey down the slope toward the ocean.

Above the soaking area, a wooden platform offers a couple of basic changing stalls and space to leave your belongings while you relax in the pools. We changed into our swimsuits and made our way down.

Enough Room for All of Us

As the last of our group to arrive, we were pleasantly surprised to find there was still plenty of room to settle in. Getting down into the narrow soaking area requires a bit of care and agility, and we were glad we’d brought water shoes to protect our feet. Some guests wore flip-flops, and a few braved it barefoot—it’s a matter of preference, but we’d recommend grippy water shoes for both comfort and safety.

The hot creek flows to the edge of a short cliff before cascading into the rocky soaking pools below, where we sat in warm water about one to three feet deep. The temperature was soothing—not too hot—and just perfect for a long soak.

When the tide comes in, ocean waves crash over the edge of the pools and flush them out with fresh seawater. But at low tide, as it was during our visit, the pools stayed calm, clear, and delightfully warm.

We became more and more relaxed as we soaked. Our fellow travelers took turns sitting directly under the cascade of warm water coming off the rock overhang. It was like a hot tub and mini waterfall all at once.

Karen soaking in the warm pools at Hot Springs Cove, cascading spring water behind her

Making Our Way Back to the Boat

Keeping an eye on my watch, we climbed out of the pools and changed back into our regular clothes, leaving enough time to make the walk back to the dock before our scheduled departure.

As we approached the dock end of the boardwalk, several groups of newly arrived visitors passed us heading in. By our count, there were about twice as many new people as in our group. Karen and I exchanged a glance after greeting the next wave of bathers—both of us quietly thankful that we’d taken the early boat out to the cove.

But the Journey Wasn’t Over

The seas had calmed a bit since we left Tofino four hours earlier, and Richard decided it was safe to take the outer route home. Seeing the coastline from a different angle gave the return trip a whole new perspective.

Whale Alert!

About two-thirds of the way back, Richard got on the boat’s radio. After a few animated conversations with other captains, he slowed the boat—word was, gray whales were nearby. For the next half hour, we moved at a crawl, scanning the surface of the ocean.

Richard told us that whales typically stay below the surface for about seven minutes between sightings. We had a good idea of the general area where they might reappear, but even with thirteen pairs of eyes searching in all directions, they can be surprisingly easy to miss.

Singing Seemed to Help

While we waited, Richard reached into his bag and pulled out a ceremonial drum his daughter had made for him. The design on the drum’s face looked to us like a dancing raven or thunderbird. He beamed with pride as he showed it to us. Then, as he played the drum, he sang to the whales. He was calling them to the surface.

Just as we were ready to give up, the moment came we’d been hoping for: a burst of mist in the distance, followed by several whale spouts. We even caught the unforgettable sight of a few massive tails waving goodbye before the whales dove deep for another feeding session.